A dermatologist explains the possible causes of the two cosmetic concerns, how to tell the difference and what treatments are best, from vitamin C, caffeine creams and sunscreen to surgery
Waking up to tired-looking eyes is an all-too-familiar frustration for many. Whether it’s a busy work week, restless nights or genetics at play, under-eye issues seem to stick around stubbornly, casting a shadow over an otherwise fresh face.
But here’s where the confusion often begins: even though dark circles and under-eye bags can both be signs of fatigue, caused by smoking, pollution, alcohol and lack of sleep and be inherited or age-related, they are two different things. The first step in treating them is figuring out which one you’re seeing in that mirror.
What are dark circles?
Dark circles refers to the dark pigmentation beneath the eyes, which can range from a faint shadow to a more pronounced blue or purplish hue. These aren’t caused by lack of sleep alone – though that can definitely make them worse. “Genetics play a major role in this, meaning some are simply born with thinner skin around the eyes, making the blood vessels more visible,” California-based dermatologist Dr Jason Stevens explains.
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As the skin ages collagen levels drop, causing that area to look even more hollowed out and tired. Factor in a bit of sun exposure, some dehydration or the occasional eye rub and voilA – dark circles that are hard to hide.
What are under-eye bags?
On the other hand, under-eye bags are more structural in nature. Think of them as the sagging skin or puffiness that appears just beneath the eyes. They are largely thanks to ageing. “Over time, muscles and tissues weaken, causing the fat that’s normally held tightly under the eyes to slip downwards, creating that puffy, bag-like appearance,” Stevens says.
Fluid retention, especially after a salty dinner or a sleepless night, can also make those bags puff up even more. And while it’s tempting to reach for the latest eye cream in the hope of a quick fix, no number of topical miracle products can entirely turn back time.
How to figure out which you have
Stevens says a simple pinch test can help. “Gently lift the skin under the eyes – if the darkness fades with the pinch, chances are it’s related to puffiness or thinning skin rather than pigmentation. If the darkness sticks around no matter what, it’s likely more of a pigmentation issue,” he explains.
How to treat dark circles
For those battling dark circles, it’s all about improving skin tone and texture. Topical creams with ingredients such as vitamin C can brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of pigmentation over time. “Retinoids or peptides can also help strengthen the skin and stimulate collagen production, making those dark circles less noticeable,” Stevens adds.
And while eye creams might not have a dramatic plumping effect, keeping the area hydrated with hyaluronic acid certainly doesn’t hurt. Lifestyle changes, like getting enough sleep, staying hydrated and using sunscreen can also make a world of difference when it comes to keeping those shadows at bay.
How to treat under-eye bags
Treating under-eye bags requires a different approach. For mild puffiness, cold compresses, ice globes or caffeine-infused creams can temporarily reduce swelling by constricting blood vessels. However, for those dealing with more pronounced bags caused by ageing, Stevens says dermal fillers may offer a longer-term solution.
“Hyaluronic acid fillers can restore lost volume, smoothing out the puffiness and blending the transition between the lower eyelid and the cheek,” he explains. There are also radio frequency treatments, which use heat to stimulate collagen and tighten the skin. For those looking for a more permanent fix, a surgical procedure such as blepharoplasty can remove excess skin and fat
