As one of the biggest beauty trends of the 2010s effortlessly rolls over into the new decade, we suss out the best ways to style your brows
Ever since Cara Delevingne burst on to the scene in 2011, big eyebrows have been big news. Beauticians, make-up artists, celebrities and beauty editors alike swapped out the noughties’ narrowing, overly arched eyebrow (sported by every cast member of The Hills upon debut) for a full-bodied alternative. So much so, that bold brows are arguably the defining beauty trend of the decade just behind us.
While they’re going nowhere for 2020, Patsy Kerr, founder of Brows By Patsy, says that this time around, it’s all about striking a balance between an over-plucked brow (Kate Moss circa 1990) and an over-styled finish (the signature Kardashian / Jenner shape). “The perfect, clean Instagram brow is out; the latest trend is natural, brushed-up brows.” From semi-permanent solutions to rehabilitate eyebrows to the latest styling techniques, here’s how to achieve the look.
Brow lamination
In 2020, brow lamination is the styling treatment you will hear about wherever you go. “Brow lamination is a process that lifts the eyebrow hairs from the root using a setting lotion,” says Caroline Mills, brow expert at Brau salon. “Technicians can then brush and set these hairs in any desired direction to create a fuller, fluffier and denser brow. We also add some colour.” Think of it as an eyebrow equivalent of LVL (length, volume and lift) eyelashes. “Even the thinnest of brows can appear fuller in one treatment,” adds Mills.
Although it is not permanent, lamination is a non-invasive treatment that lasts six to eight weeks, and is ideal for those who want to enhance what they already have – swapping out the daily make-up routine for a bimonthly salon visit. Mills explains that the trend erupted towards the end of last year and its popularity is expected to soar in the year ahead.
Microblading, micropigmentation and nano-needling
While we can forgive you for being late to the lamination party, there’s no excuse for missing the microblading train. A long-term solution for lacklustre brows in need of more than a lick of clear mascara, the treatment already has a diehard following.
It’s a minimally invasive treatment within which pigment is deposited into the epidermis layer of the brow skin using an ultrafine blade. This creates [the appearance of] a crisp, fine hair stroke that blends with your natural hair to create an incredibly realistic finish
Caroline Mills
“It’s a minimally invasive treatment within which pigment is deposited into the epidermis layer of the brow skin using an ultrafine blade,” says Mills. “This creates [the appearance of] a crisp, fine hair stroke that blends with your natural hair to create an incredibly realistic finish.”
Microblading can last up to two years and is particularly recommended for women with patchy or sparse brows. But it isn’t the only semi-permanent option. Kerr details that alongside the colossal increase in treatments over the last five years have come “new advances in machinery, finer needles, better pigments and new drawing techniques”.
She unpacks two of the alternatives she offers patients at Lesprit Medical Clinic in Dubai. “Micropigmentation is done with a machine using a single needle with the assistance of light vibration from the handpiece,” she says. As microblading isn’t suitable for all skin types, those with oily, sensitive or thin skin would be more suited to this gentler alternative. Then there’s nano-needling, which is similar but uses the thinnest needle available, and it’s the best option for women with barely any hair to begin with. However, Kerr warns: “If someone is after heavier, bolder eyebrows, this won’t always give that effect.”
HD Brows
Founded in 2008 in a UK salon, the High Definition Brows method has travelled well beyond Britain’s borders over the last decade – and Dubai salon THT is one of the establishments to take it on. “HD Brows is a seven-step procedure that involves a combination of techniques including bespoke eyebrow tinting, waxing, threading and make-up application to give the illusion of very defined brows,” says the salon’s senior beauty therapist Linelyn Arceo.
The 45-minute service starts with a face-mapping session to help redefine and rehabilitate customers’ brows in way that will both complement their face shape and enhance their best features – it’s far from a one-size-fits-all thread and tint. If you’ve got to a point where your eyebrows look like third cousins, let alone sisters, and have strayed so far apart that there must have been a family argument somewhere down the line, then this is an ideal solution to gradually restore brows to their former glory.
“Normal shaping and tinting will usually last around two weeks, where the results from your HD Brow treatment will last from three to six weeks,” Arceo says.
DIY brows
If you’re more of a do-it-yourself person, then behold the plethora of products available to help beauty lovers recreate such treatments at home. Sephora has almost 100 results for brow make-up; Hourglass recently launched an entire Unrestricted Brow Collection with specific products to fill, define, build and set brows; and Benefit has more unique brow styling cosmetics than fingers you can count on.
Yara Ayoob, Benefit Cosmetics’ regional brow artist, says that with the right tools, women can mimic the look of lamination and microblading at home – namely Benefit Precisely, My Brow Pencil and Benefit 24-Hour Brow Setter Clear Brow Gel. When used to brush the hairs upward, the latter creates a laminated finish, Ayoob explains. She advises then “pressing the hairs upward with your finger” to add to that effect.
Once the gel dries, use the former to fill in any gaps. “The tip of the pencil is super-thin, and allows you to draw hairlike strokes so the result of your brows will mimic that of microblading,” she says, so you can create a full, brushed up look from home.
Microblading
Microblading 101: Everything You Need to Know Before Your Appointment
Long story short: You basically don’t have to use brow products anymore.
Let me guess: You’re here because you fill your brows in every day, you’re kinda over it, aaaand you’re officially considering microblading, the semi-permanent form of brow tattooing. But if the idea of microblading scares you too much to try it (there’s something about permanent makeup that feels so…permanent), don’t psych yourself out. Not only does process hurt way less than you think, but the results don’t actually last forever—which is great news if you’re on the fence.
To help answer every question you might have about microblading, we turned to makeup artist, certified esthetician, and cosmetic tattoo specialist Piret Aava, who’s also known as the eyebrow doctor. And not only did we go to Piret with allll the questions, but one Cosmo editor also tried out the semi-permanent eyebrow treatment for herself (peep her before-and-after pics below). Keep scrolling to find out how her experience went and to learn all about microblading so you, too, can have perfect brows without all the extra effort.
What is brow microblading?
Manual microblading is a process that involves tiny, fine-point needles (instead of a tattoo gun) that make up a small disposable blade and handle (picture a very small tool that looks like a rat-tail comb) to scratch and deposit pigment simultaneously under your skin. The result? Realistic-looking brow hairs that don’t wash off.
Sooo, is microblading a tattoo?
Yes, but also, no. Unlike tattoos that last forever, microblading is a form of semi-permanent tattooing (keep reading if you wanna know how long it lasts). For microblading, Piret uses a hand tool that lets her create thinner, more precise, hairlike strokes that aren’t as deeply ingrained into the skin (compared to, say, hairlike strokes created by a tattoo gun). The pigment also differs from that of a tattoo because (1) it’s only semi-permanent, which means your body eventually ends up metabolizing it so it fades away, and (2) the dye particles are less concentrated in microblading ink than in the ink of a traditional tattoo.
Microblading eyebrows before and after:
The cool thing about microblading is that you can have thick, ultra-faint brows, or even lost your brows due to alopecia, and a good microblader can still create the appearance of naturally full brows on anyone using any shade range. On her clients, Piret creates a custom color using several shades that match your hair color, so your brows will look multidimensional and ~real~. Don’t believe me? Check out a few examples of Piret’s work below:
How long does microblading last?
Microblading usually lasts 1-3 years depending on your skin type (oilier skin types tend to fade the fastest), but, says Piret, clients should go back after four weeks for a touch-up and to check-in to make sure they’re happy with the end result (these appointments cost less than the initial price of microblading; more on the $$ below). After those first four weeks, Piret says you typically won’t need a touch-up for 12 months.
Sorry, buuuut microblading isn’t cheap: Depending on where you live and where you get them done, expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2,000. And if you want to see Piret, save up: An appointment with her costs $2,000, which includes that initial touch-up that’s baked into the cost. That said, brow products aren’t cheap and time is money, so it can definitely be worth the cost for anyone not feeling their natural brows.
Microblading aftercare:
Now, listen up because if you do decide to get your brows done, this part is super important: For a week after your appointment, do not get your brows wet or sweaty. And if you do absolutely need to work out, Piret highly recommends covering them with ointment first to protect the pigment and keep the cuts clean and bacteria-free.
She recommends you use an antibacterial ointment on your brows for the first 24 hours, and then a Vaseline-like ointment for a week. She also says no picking of any scabs that form from the tiny cuts, and avoid using any acids or retinoids while they heal, since they could fade the pigments.
One Cosmo editor’s review:
“I’ve always had bushy brows, but as I’ve gotten older, the beginning and tail end of my arches have definitely thinned out, which made me want to try microblading. I’m not going to lie: I was kind of nervous about the whole semi-permanent part, but Piret reassured me that she’d draw in my brows first to make sure I liked the shape before she officially microbladed them.
After I approved the shape, I laid back down on a sterile, hospital-like bed. Piret then began creating the tiny superficial cuts in and along my brow, depositing the pigment over my arches so it would seep into the hair-like wounds she had just created.
Okay, I know this all sounds super painful and scary, but I promise it’s surprisingly not. If you’ve ever threaded your eyebrows, microblading feels pretty similar. It was definitely uncomfortable, but I wouldn’t call it painful? More like little annoying scratches, if anything. Plus, the whole procedure from start to finish only took about an hour, so it wasn’t anything too intense.
(P.S. If you want to watch my full first-time microblading experience, see below:)
Post-microblading, I took about 100 selfies and went off to spread the gospel it to all who would listen. I thankfully also had a totally normal healing experience: A few weeks later, my brows looked as natural and as thick as I’d always wanted.
Where can I get microblading?
To get your own semi-permanent brow look, book an appointment with Piret (I know, I know—but I had a good experience!), or, more realistically, research a brow tattoo specialist near you (FWIW, Piret also recommends UzBrows if you live near Los Angeles or Permanent Beauty by Monica if you live near New York City). Just keep in mind that Piret recommends doing your due diligence and looking into technicians’ past work to make sure their results are what you want.
Not Ready for Microblading? Try These 4 Brow Products
That said, if you’re still hesitant about microblading or don’t have a brow artist near you that you trust, Piret recommends two products: Kevyn Aucoin’s brow pencil, which has a non-waxy fine point that helps you create hairlike strokes, and her brow gel, which comes in clear, brunette, and blonde and offers a stiffer hold that keeps your hairs in place. These alternate options might not be permanent solutions, but hey, it’ll at least buy you some time to save up and prepare yourself for the real thing.
